Smuggling Budgies in Esperance

Passed along the Apex Australia grapevine, we were put in touch with Derek Clarke in Esperance. Esperance is on West Australia's southern coast and a short drive from Ravensthorpe where we were staying with friends of Derek's sister Mazz, Jenny and Andrew Chambers, on their wheat farm. Over dinner at the Chambers' the night before we set off for Esperance, Mazz had warned us about Derek, "he's not like me at all, I don't know where he gets it from". Gets what, we asked. "He's very... dramatic" was all she would say.

DSC_1098

View from Frenchman's Peak Hill

Dramatic? True enough. We had received this text message from him the day before: Do you guys know what Budgie Smugglers are? With no further elaboration, we tried to put the squeeze on Mazz, to see if she knew what her brother was up to. Clearly under orders not to reveal more and spoil the surprise, all she would say was that "my brother has a real taste for the dramatic. I'm not supposed to tell you any more. He..." and she tailed off as we hung our fork-fulls mid air, mouths agape, wondering what in the name of dancing Beelzebubs we had gotten ourselves into.

DSC_1146

Budgie Smugglers? Errant, flair-for-the-dramatic brothers swearing their sisters to secrecy? This was all very cloak-and-dagger, too Mr Mustard in the Drawing Room with a gold chandelier. What pact had we entered into when we accepted the offer of assistance from the Apex Australia club? Would we ever be the same again? Who supplied the budgies and where were we to smuggle them to? Would Phil, who regularly sleeps with one eye open, now keep watch with two? Our fate was out of our hands and an enigmatic riddle was unfolding. We had no choice but to walk smack-bang into it.

DSC_1090

Climbing up Frenchman's Peak was not the easy stroll we first thought it would be

We drove smack-band into Derek’s scheming by early afternoon (regular subscribers to our blogsite will undoubtedly know by now the regularity with which we arrive places ‘early/late evening’, as intrepidity may be a full-time state of mind, but it doesn’t really kick in until the fourth or fifth cup of coffee after waking up. This note is for all you who take notice, who really care, and who take pride in pointing these things out). He had contacted us as we approached Esperance, telling us to meet him in a lay-by, outside the town, in the Information Bay, and to ring him when we were there.

DSC_1100

What? Why are we? Uh? He said what? And we just wait and? Ah? That’s what he said to what? Eh? These words and more like them we inarticulated as we waited for Derek “Drama” Clarke to meet us. It was all very Mission Impossible – enigmatic Budgie Smuggler codewords, secret itineraries, secure location ‘meets’ - who was this man, this Dr Strangelove who orchestrated all this? (You exshpect ush to talk? - No, Cheekyasyoucants, I expect you to die!)

DSC_1104

Barry Wroth and Laury Seaton make sure Phil doesn't forget his bucket

Half-expecting a blacked out anonymous-looking car to glide along the gravel path towards us and for a besuited bowler-hat wearing, stocky, strong-arm Chinaman killer-assassin-chauffeur to open the passenger door and for an egg-headed oddball scar-faced evil genius to emerge to tell us our fate, we were surprised when Derek drove up to us in a perky white car, and emerged from it smiling, looking normal, but smiling a smile all the time.

DSC_1113

We make it to the top. Anne now has more to worry about than her fear of heights

He introduced himself then handed us our itinerary; a map of Esperance; directions to the Seton's whose house we would be staying in; a voucher to buy some lunch at the Jetty Café; and our activities for the next two days, starting with the Apex meeting that night, where we would have explained to us what the list of challenges intricately associated with Budgie Smugglers and enigmatically entitled Wash a Beret, Scrub a Seal and Clean a Car actually meant. Still smiling, he laughed, then abruptly said goodbye, and left us in the lay-by, waving us off, still smiling, and laughing, and we felt worried, confused, and deeply, deeply concerned that Derek was some kind of sick twisted sicko. As it turns out we were only half right.

DSC_1128

Stood Half Naked on Frenchmans Peak we celebrate that Challenge 1 is Completed

We parked up at Laurie and Rachel Seton's home, greeted enthusiastically by Rachel, as Laurie, Apex Club President, and Policeman, was working. She showed us to the annexed building which was to be our home for the next week, and we settled in, then went to the Apex meeting to discover our fate and see what all this clandestine maneuvering had been leading us towards. We had heard of the secretism and furtiveness of the Masons, but also of the covert and hidden nature of the Ku Klux Klan. Was this somewhere in between? What did they have against budgies anyway?

DSC_1130

Well, now we know what budgie smugglers are!

We found out soon enough though. Arriving at the meeting in the Bay of Isles Hotel for the 6.30pm rendezvous we were met by Derek, who took us inside and put us at our ease, introducing us to members Stewart Ward and Ross Beckett, who in turn introduced us to the others. Before long we were taken into the meeting room, and introduced to everyone else, as they went through the procedural and practical machinations of running a service club.
DSC_1132

We wash a Frenchman's Peak Hill

Apex is the only Australian made service club, being founded in Geelong, Victoria, during the 1930s depression by three young architects. The three, sons of Rotarians, had wanted to join a Rotary club but because they shared the same profession, were not allowed. So they formed Apex. Now an Australia wide organization Apex clubs are made up of members aged 18 to 45, of both men and women, and youth clubs consisting of young Australians aged up to 18.

DSC_1137

At the beginning of the meeting acting President Ross Beckett (Laurie was on duty, catching perps) asked Derek to voice the Ideals of Apex, that summarise the aims and aspirations of the Apexians. He stood and repeated verbatim that it was their goal: "To make the ideal of service the basis of all enterprise; To develop by example a more intelligent and aggressive citizenship; To provide a means of forming enduring friendships, rendering altruistic service and building better communities; To promote international understanding and friendship". Then asked as a matter of protocol to repeat the mission statement, he declared, with a smile in our direction, that it was "To grow, learn, make friends, and have fun, while helping others".

DSC_1231

Gareth working away at task number two

He then sat down and the meeting went through its motions. After dinner was served we were asked to speak, and after the explaining was done, we sat and answered questions. Then it was time to reveal what it was we were to be doing, and what the mystery had been all about. Individual envelopes were handed to the three of us, and one by one, we were asked to open them to reveal our challenges.

DSC_1226

Challenge 1: Wash a Beret. Sponsored to the tune of $250 by the Esperance Apex Club. We were to climb to the top of Frenchman's Peak, a hilltop lookout, and, with only a bucket and a toothbrush, clean the top of it, wearing only a pair of Budgie Smugglers

Challenge 2: Clean a car. Sponsored for $250 by the Bay Automotive Group. We were to clean all the cars in their used car lot, again, wearing only the Budgie Smugglers.

Challenge 3: Scrub a Seal. Sponsored for $250 by Bay of Isles Computers. We were to scrub, using only toothbrushes, all the birdshit off the seal statues in the fountain in the roundabout in the middle of town, wearing, again, only the Budgie Smugglers.

DSC_1222

By then, of course, we had a fair idea what 'Budgie Smugglers' were, so when Derek produced from a goody bag a pair of (brand new, thank god) skin-tight swimming trunks (bathers? cossies? togs?) for Phil and I, we were not surprised, but imagining ourselves in them in public took some doing and was an image best pushed aside. We were learning that we were going to have to earn our donations. The date for the challenge was set for early the following day, so, presumably, we could not scarper and do a runner.

DSC_1224

On the Thursday, Laurie had a day off, and he suggested we take a drive around the beach to Cape la Grande, and up Frenchman's Peak, where we could complete Challenge 1. As promised, we packed our budgie smugglers. Unloading the cars we were then loaded with the buckets, the water, the toothbrushes and (for those of us endowed by nature with one) our budgies, which were tucked away snugly, and we ascended Frenchman's Peak. The view top was breathtaking, with a panorama of Esperance Bay and beyond. In the matter of minutes, though, the view was a whole lot less pleasant, as bare flesh goosepimpled by the biting wind, and wedgie-snapped milk white cheeks punched each other inside over-tight speedos, and the budgie in us withered and shrank away, as we cleaned and clenched then through gritted teeth performed our task, completing our challenge, and abandoning our dignity.

DSC_1257

The day of the challenges and we were ready and waiting, willing and wanting to get it all over and done with, asap, no-questions-asked, get-in get-out, no messing around up and attem. We arrived gingerly at the Bay Automotive Group. Stuart and Bruce showed us their used car lot, and all 50 vehicles waiting to be cleaned and took the piss. Stuart then introduced us to Brownie, who usually does the job alone and fully-clothed, and to his credit, he took it in his stride.


DSC_1242

We were both of us smuggling before long and as the traffic swerved and veered to catch sight of us (or having caught sight been blinded by the reflection off a gleaming 'ttock) and whistled and jeered and put protective palms over innocent kiddies eyes, we were lathering up a storm, washing the cars with both efficiency and sexiness, showing more thigh than a Butcher's shop window, with more bounce than a seal rookery during the mating season.

DSC_1247

After being presented with our cheque by Stuart and Bruce, we drove off to out next challenge in a courtesy car, our van being given a full service by the mechanics at Bay Automotive, much to Stuart's chagrin as he joked "they're givin ya the works, I told em to check the oil and change a windscreen wiper for ya, but they never bloody listen to me", and waited for Derek Clarke at the Roundabout on the intersection of Andrew St and The Esplanade.

DSC_1246

Sarah, an Apexian collects extra donations in the form of viewing the nutters tax

We had lost one of the toothbrushes we were to use to clean the seal statues, presented to us at the Apex Meeting (the vortex that is the inside of the van swirls at a rate three hundred thousand times faster than even the fastest of washing machines - that is: fast - nothing is where you put it, even if you say you put it there, which you probably did, but three dimension changes ago. The Vortex ) and told Derek that, drat, golly-darn, and oh, no, we're one peg-brush down, and ..tch.. ooh.

DSC_1256

We scrub away at the seagull poo with our toothbrushes

"Not to worry" says a beaming Derek 'Drama' Clarke, "I took the precaution of bringing an extra one each, just in case, so you can all get stuck in. Here you go", and he presented us with a choice selection. I took one with the double-brush-action with the thick-set tubi-grip and smiling through my teeth at Drama we proceeded to the roundabout, got semi-nakeed in public and clambered into the middle of it, took up a seal each and scrubbed.

DSC_1248

To say that it was humiliating would be to assume we had much shame or sense of self-worth remaining in us after the two previous challenges. There was a steady stream of cars passing by. Some circled and drove circuits to get a better look, others were visibly disgusted, some laughed and cheered us on, the hoot-tooting of car horns continuous. Sarah and Ross Beckett stopped drivers and shook the tin collecting donations for us. Any ideas we may have harboured about this being a publicity stunt for five minutes for the local paper were swiftly banished, as Derek, still smiling, took picture after picture, reminding us at one stage that "you only have another forty-five minutes left guys, well done". Only?

DSC_1264

We laugh at the expressions of drivers passing by as they see us at work

We scrubbed and cleaned and got stuck in. Now we're not sure why he did it, but Drama told us half-way through the challenge that "it's lucky you're doing this today, because on Monday the council are cleaning it all with power washers, and then there'd be no birdshit left for you guys to clean eh". Lucky wasn't the word that immediately sprang to mind really.

DSC_1268

Toothbrushes in the air, Challenge 3 is completed

Paul Wenegal, from Bay of Isles Computers, who sponsored us for this challenge arrived just as we were finishing up our Indignity Hour, having scrubbed all the crap we could find. It felt strange being back in clothing. And although it was cold us budgie smugglers are a toughened breed, but our budgies were withering and needed a nice warm bed.

DSC_1286

Paul, the man responsible for challenge number 3

DSC_1276

Two minutes after we finish cleaning the seagull poo the birds are back undoing our work, laughing at us with their caws.


Read a cheeky bit more!

Our two Death Filled Encounters with Whales - Beaching and Hunting

DSC_0911

The Cheynes Whalechaser

'To see whales', this was always up there on our wish list for Aussie experiences. But I could never have guessed the way I would be first introduced to them would be so dissapointing and sad.

DSC_0951

Unfortunately, our first encounter with with whales wasn't exactly a happy affair, nor a real encounter. We were in Margaret River when we heard the news over the radio. More than 70 whales and dolphins had been stranded just down the coast at Hamelin Bay in a mass stranding. The survivors were to be moved to a new location and all the dead whales were to be moved out of the water to stop sharks coming inland to feast on the dead and even those still fighting for life.

DSC_0941

We decided to go and help try to save the remaining eleven that survived the initial stranding, driving as fast as we could given our strict 80km/h economising speed limit. Heading straight to the beach armed with towels, we thought about what kind of work we would probably have to do as a volunteer. But it wasn't to be. The road to the beach was blocked.

DSC_0961

Given 3D glasses we watched the underwater world come to life during a film shown in one of their old whale oil storage tanks.

Informed by a steward that we could only volunteer our services if we had full length wet suits we were stopped in our tracks and told to turn around and go back. Dejected, feeling a little uselesss, and sad about hearing that more of the whales didn't make it, we returned to Margaret River with somewhat less of our precious fuel, all towels dry.

DSC_0948

Volunteers who did have the proper whale saving wear showed great perserverance saving those few that made it. The dead whales are fairly scratched up because they washed in over rocks and we watched news footage of volunteers crying over those that couldn't be saved. The dead whales were transported to a waste disposal area within the Shire of Augusta-Margaret River. The Shire provided resources and equipment for this process.

DSC_0942

Earlier in the year, 194 pilot whales and seven dolphins became stranded on a sandbar in Tasmania and only 54 whales and five dolphins were able to be saved. In January, 45 sperm whales died after becoming beached on a different Tasmanian sandbar. The reasons behind these mass strandings are still a mystery. It was sad that this happened - we are still yet to see a live whale.

DSC_0928

Along with mass beaching in the area effecting whale numbers, the whales around here were once hunted to near extinction. Albany was once the home of whaling and sealing in Australia, the first recognized industry in the young country in those days. Gradually, from the beginning of the 1800s the local whaling ventures were joined in the seas around Albany by American, French and British whaling ships, with the Norwagians joining in later too to chase firstly the Southern Right, then the Humpback and Sperm whales, and it continued until 1978, when legal changes made the operation untenable.



DSC_0918

All the original equipment are on display at Whale World

We visited Whale World, Albany where we were donated with free entrance tickets to find out more. Although learning about whaling was hardly a sustitute for seeing live whales migrate along the Australian coast, it was a surprisingly enthralling experience.

Situated on the site of the old Cheynes Beach Whaling Station, located on the picturesque southern coast of King George Sound in Albany, Western Australia. The station ceased whaling operations and was decommissioned in 1978. Now an international tourist icon, it is also acknowledged as one of the State's most significant tourist attractions.

DSC_0923 DSC_0925

This old whaling station turned whaling museum with help from the Lottery Foundation was gave us a great insight into the whaling trade. With an actual whaling ship beached on the shores open to the public, along with exhibitions show casing all aspects of the trade, from the flensing deck where the whales were cut up to enormous full skeletons where you can feel their grand size.

DSC_0932

Parasites plague whale skins, here are a few that can be seen in pickling jars

DSC_0919

Informative photos of the whaling trade found at Whale World

DSC_0920

DSC_0921

DSC_0922
Read a cheeky bit more!

Denmark, Albany and Ravensthorpe -

DSC_0859

DSC_0869

Denmark, a safe haven for lovely blouses and pinched cheeks

We made it to Denmark before the day was out, and the quaint English countryside feeling continued to grow. Gone were the days of the grizzled Aussie sausage-sizzle, this was a place of pate, and wine, riverside picnics and oh-my-don't-you-look-well-in-that-smashing-blouse conversations. But, of course, Denmark's past grew out of harsher soil.

DSC_0829

Ghost gum tree branches look beautiful against a blue sky

It grew out of the timber industry in the 1870s, and the railway that interlinked it with the logging towns of Albany and Torbay which produced timber to send to the goldmine in Kalgoorlie, as the demand for timber grew significantly while the mine expanded. Settlers to Denmark were given the herculean task of clearing the land for pasture, which, of course, meant chopping the giant Karri and Tingle trees down. The timber industry has slowed dramatically over the years though, and it is with relief that we heard this.

DSC_0833

DSC_0835

Greens Pool ,Denmark is a shelter of calm clear waters

Because the loveliness of south-west WA is really, well, lovely. It is very easy to love the landscape, with none of the harshness of the vast Outback. It certainly is a picture: the pastures, fields, little hills, vineyards and forests of huge, elegant trees in an autumnal hue, a cool breeze and swaying grasses; the rolling Indian Ocean o'er yonder hillock, and the sand-carpeted beaches and granite outcrops that lie ever so invitingly and not too far away.

DSC_0836

DSC_0838

DSC_0841

DSC_0852

DSC_0854

Arriving in Albany next day the breeziness continued. Invited to dinner at his restaurant, Nonna's, later that evening by Michael John Delli-Bendetti, we were also assured of a morning's work next day, helping him build a wall. Joanna, owner of the YHA Backpackers could not do enough for us, and Wayne, owner of the local pub, decided we were worth the donation of a "carton of piss", ('case of beer' in English). It seemed that Albany had deicided to join in with the lovely-theme of the past few days.

DSC_0855

Elephant Rocks; it's clear to see the reasons for the moniker

DSC_0856

We stayed in Albany over the weekend, earning donations while there, and enjoying the friendliness and ease of being there.

DSC_0891

Albany

DSC_0895 DSC_0899

DSC_0904

The natural bridge in Torndirrup, Albany

DSC_0900

Next stop, we stayed with Jenny and Andrew Chambers, at Yoorooga Farm, in Ravensthorpe, about 300 kilometres from Albany. We had been put in touch with Jenny via Derek Clarke in Esperance, an Apex man contacted by Mike Gilbert in Perth. Derek's sister, Mazz, was a neighbour of the Chambers' and it was a lovely home cooked roast that greeted us as we arrived.

DSC_1074

Gareth and Phil with the lovely Jenny Chambers

DSC_1070

The chambers family, Maz and friends

DSC_1027

Phil and Gareth accidentally lock themselves out on the veranda while they were washing windows, a passer by had to rescue them

Jenny had organised some work for us the next day at the Ravensthorpe Community Centre where she works, for which we were handsomely paid, squeezing in a gardening job with Jessie and Geoff Fairhead, who read of our trip in the local paper.

DSC_1043

We're becoming dab hands at gardening

DSC_1047

DSC_0989

Phil sweeps away the cobwebs in a grand old room at Ravensthorpe community centre

DSC_1025

Leaving Ravensthorpe, en route to Esperance, we were warned by Mazz that Derek had something planned for us, something grand and steeped in mischief, a flourish of activities and to-doings, and we drove towards his scheme, with but the words "budgie-smugglers", his only clue, reverberating in our heads.

Read a cheeky bit more!