Aboriginal Dreamtime Cultural Centre

DSC_1777 A dugong (seacow) is special to Aboriginal People It was now time to throw a boomerang. Boomerangs were originally used for hunting, although those used for pursuing animals were not designed to come back, after all, if it comes back, then it means you haven't hit anything on route, and that means no barbi. The guide demonstrated the finer art of boomerang throwing as we looked on, watching each and every boomerang land in the palm of his hand. It was now our turn, each person on the tour was encouraged to have a go, young and old alike trying to recreate the perfect throw. All three of us got reasonably close but didn’t manage to catch it, we can now appreciate just how skillful an art it is. Surprisingly, unlike a Frisbee you don't do an under arm release but instead do an overarm fling at a 45 degree angle. Although we did well for our first try (video to come shortly), we had little chance of catching any meat with our throws. So, it looks like all you little birdies are safe for now. You're in more danger when Gareth has been eating a cabbage dinner, letting off gale force parp gusts capable of sending all surrounding flaming galas, willy-wag tails and kookaburras spiralling to the ground, than when we are armed with these most famous of Aboriginal tools.
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While staying in Cobraball, Leah Grice organised for us to visit the Dreamtime Cultural Centre just down the road in Rockhampton. The centre was opened over 20 years ago and was initially used as a way for Aboriginal elders to pass on their knowledge to the young. Out of that grew the cultural centre as it is today and the Rockhampton City Council have now entered into an agreement with the Central Queensland Aboriginal Corporation to provide a long term tenure for the centre.
It is recognised that the original occupants of the land were the Darambal Tribe and the site still contains the tribe’s traditional ceremonial rings. This area is part of the Central Queensland Sandstone Belt and there is a display at the centre focusing on the vanishing culture of this area. The recreated sandstone caves show some of the rock art and early mythology of the region as well as portraying the traditional people of the area and sites of particular significance.
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In the Torres Straight Islander Village a tour guide from the region explains the traditional lifestyle and beliefs of their unique culture. This takes place in an original Dugong complex which displays some of the artifacts and building materials used by the Islanders.
The tour then moved on to a large stone cave where we were given a demonstration of the Didgeridoo. The range of sounds and the different beats and volumes produced was phenomenal and the different techniques for making and changing the sound were explained. The cave was the perfect setting not just acoustically but also adding to the atmosphere. The deep, sonorous under growls of the bass coupled with the throaty vocals pushed on with circular breathing seemly impossible to all those who don't dedicate a good few decades mastering their diaphragms echoed with the excellent mood producing acoustics of the natural oubliette we were sitting in. Sun seeping in through the oculus, making a natural spot light for our performer, the cooling properties of the cave creating a cool sanctuary from the glaring heat of the day.
It is also possible whilst there to wander around the gardens, where particular native plants have information boards next to them describing there uses for food, medicine or hunting and building materials. The sporting person’s art gallery also depicts successful aboriginal sports people.
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For more information and opening times please visit the Aboriginal Dreamtime Centre webpage
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Albi Wooler and his Olympic Torch!!! (Sat 4th Oct)

DSC_1596 Olympic torch One of the most surprising visitors to the open day was an incredible gentleman called Albi Wooler. President of Capricorn Coast Landcare Group, he has been a leader in voluntary environmental work for more than twenty years, bringing awareness to young people and educating students on conservation issues. This year, on the day of his 77th birthday, he had the great honour of being an Olympic torch bearer! What a treat for us! We are in the first week of our journey and we have already met our first celebrity.DSC_1532 The Cheeky Gang with Albi Woooler, watch this space to view our soon to come interview with an Olympic torch Bearer
Through Youth Landcare programs he has made children feel the effects of their presence on our environments, educating them by giving them hands on projects in conservation work. When children feel part of something they strive to take care of what they have found a connection with and pass on their knowledge, so Albi’s work carries on beyond his immediate teachings.
DSC_1528 Phil holds the relay torch DSC_1533
Albi was worried before the torch bearing about the possibility of protesters. He vowed, that if the worst came to worst, “It will take more than a couple of demonstrators to stop me”. Luckily Australia was the only country in which there were no protesters hindering the relay, and 250 meters later, Albi had ran uninhibited through the streets of Canberra, much to the delight of all his fans.
An inspiration to us all, Albi told us how important it is to teach our children about conservation work. He passed each of us a tree to plant on Leah’s Alpaca farm so we could add a shade bearing seedling to the open landscape, making our mark on Queensland. This is the first time I have ever planted a tree and it is also the first time I’ve ever ‘dug me a hole’. With the earth quite dry here, to say that with a pick axe I had the deftness of an otter on land trying to fit a square thing in a round hole with one flipper, would be bragging. The axe fell on the ground, not with a sound of a mighty swoop, but with a quiet splathug ding, whereby a tiny chipping would fly off in the direction that all dirt seems to fly with magnetic force on this trip - onto my feet. With the want to be an efficient Landcarer, but achieving nought but the speed of a sedated sloth on down time, I chipped away at the hard earth to reveal a crack barely large enough to squeeze in the shrubbery, but Albi helped me out by giving me advice on the delicate process of tree transplantation. My fine Maiden’s Blush is now on in the alpaca field standing waist height, I hope I get a chance to see it in its full glory one day. The boys planted their fig trees and we all stood back to admire our work with pride. It’s a great feeling to know that we have left a little something permanent but good in our footprints.
Albi was filmed by Coca-Cola in a documentary film soon to be premiered. See the official Olymic Website for more.
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Pine Fest, Yeppoon - We in a sand sculpting competition

DSC_1706 We win 1st Prize!!!!!!
Leah’s son David drove us down to Pine Festival in two large car loads. This was our first festival on our journey and it had a wonderful local feel to it. The stage contained a brightly coloured, shoulder padded, male concierge and the local performers consisted of a variety of school dances, singers and charity workers. DSC_1741
Not ones to stand back and be mere observers, when Charlotte suggested that we enter the sand sculpture competition on the beach we jumped at the chance to show off our artistic tendencies and competitive spirit. After a few minutes of informal debate on the subject matter of our piece, we settled on a leather back turtle with a baby by its side. The boys dove straight in to start digging with their hands. We were toolless and clueless, new to seaside contests, but we had the will and want to give it our best shot. A grand team effort, with Charlotte our team captain, David and Phil on chief digger duty, Nathan, Emily and myself as sculptors and Gareth as overall supervisor, we stood back and admired our work. What a fantastic effort from all! DSC_1743

We won first place!!!! I can’t remember ever winning first prize in anything before this. Our turtle topped the mermaids, crabs, boats, cars and other turtles. The biggest surprise of the day was not that we came in first place, but that there was an actual monetary prize of forty dollars to spend at the local supermarket! Foooooood!!! Brilliant!!!
DSC_1683 DSC_1680 copy Camels wait for passengers on the beach DSC_1694 The vivid hues and sounds of familiar people meeting one another at a long awaited yearly event made for a wonderful day off work and we thoroughly enjoyed being there, although it was hard to walk past the hotdog and candy apple stands without being able to buy ourselves treats when they smelled so inviting. In fact this was the first real time on the trip that we felt we missed our purchasing power. With the whole town out and about, the festival pubs were full and looked so inviting in the heat of the day. What we wouldn’t have given for a nice cold, ice cold beer. But such is the task we have chosen for ourselves that it just wasn’t to be. Ouch, it hurt to watch all that beer being guzzled from the street, our eyes wide and mouths drooling, palms flat on the pane like three children outside a Charles Dickens cake shop window.DSC_1755 Gareth is ecstatic that we get to buy some biscuits DSC_1753 DSC_1724 DSC_1698 DSC_1707 DSC_1737 DSC_1745 Well done to the winning team Nathan, Emily, David, Charlotte, Gareth, Phil and Anne DSC_1718
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Waiting for shit to Happen

Cheeky banner at alpaca farm Our Cheeky Banner (made by the beautiful Susie) at Anahdale Park

Coming over the brow of a hill, down towards the junction after Yeppoon, we noticed the flashing headlights, the gesticulating, waving, smiling person behind the wheel of a monster 4x4, and guessed correctly it was Leah, who motioned us to follow her down the track and to the homestead. Kicking up dust we were outback fellas now; off the beaten track, in the scrub, out bush.
Making a turn at a house curiously coined by someone who took a very relaxed approach to nomenclature, named 'It'l do', and driving along a long track, we saw the huge fields containing the fury bottoms we would be keenly watching for the nest few days. (a ‘paddock’ they call them here, but that, to me, doesn’t do them justice. A ‘paddock’ is where animals have a little hay and a bit of a prance, maybe a chew, and a slight meander from fence-post to fence-post to scratch their arse. These paddocks are the size of Nova Scotia and an arse scratch on yonder eastern fence-post, will mean a three week yomp to far-flung western post to alieveate that itch the tail cant reach) and the scarcity of neighbours, the parched land and the wide open spaces. One thing Australia has a lot of is open space. It’s a phenomenal experience.
Driving along in the van, and you see it all the time but never get sick of it – “there’s some! and there’s some more! Look at the size of that one! that’s a wide open space if ever I saw one.”
“Where?”
“There! By that huge range of open space there”.
“Oh, yeah, a good one that one”. DSC_1609
I mean a lot! It must be good for you too, to be surrounded by all this openess and space, widespread for you to imagine whatever you want about the world. Coming up the driveway, we were met by the whole family, who had come to meet “The Nudists” as we found out later we were being called. We said hello to everyone and were ushered to the big family table outside (everyone in Queensland eats outside. DSC_1649 It’s a wonderful way to have a meal. Sit, relax, eat, drink, take in the view, the open space again, and if the dog farts, who cares?) where we made proper acquaintance with everyone, as we ate, drank and made merry. It took us about twenty five seconds to feel at home enough to be laughing like idiots and enjoying ourselves thoroughly.Leah introduced the family to us. To her daughters Charlotte and Anne, her sons, David, Davy, and Jonathan, to wwoofers Nathan and Emily, to the five retrievers, and five cats, pointing to the alpacas and llamas in the (über) paddock. Shortly after we started to eat, David, the husband and father , came home, from a day out at the Golf Club, one of two days from the year he gets to go out and get absolutely shitfaced. He had us all in stitches, laughing until beer nearly came out of Anne’s nose. He gave us some travel advice gleaned from his eldest daughter Anne (as much as she tried to quieten him pleading ‘dad!”) telling us that a left in Paris will more than likely see us end up in somewhere France. However, were we to meander a hop-skip-and-a-jump up and right a bit, then we might find the trip to Norway could get confusing, especially if we didn’t happen to know in advance which of the Eight Norwegian Countries we happened to want to see. Did we know there were eight of them? ‘Course not. But all’s not lost, because as Bloody Pommies we can always go and console ourselves down the local pub, the commonly found Sausage and Fox. DSC_1569
It was a pleasure to be in the presence of this large, extended family group, who are very comfortable in each others company, who enjoy making one another laugh, and love joking with each other and talking, making for a real family atmosphere, if you happen to be family or not.
We were then fed our first piss-up of the trip, inhaling beer after beer as they kept on coming, supplied by Leah’s son David (not that David, but the other one, and yet another son is called Davy – long story) with beer as soon as the empty stubbie hit the table-top. A seeming anathema to all honest-to-goodness Aussies, the empty stubbie bottle represents all that is wrong with the world. It seems to stand for bad manners and sobriety, for poor form and lack of breeding. Why would you want to sit there, in front of an empty bottle, you wierdo? So, as things should be in a perfect world, it is be shunned aside, removed from play, forgotten about, and never talked of ever again. Then, the glistening, dew-frosted freshun takes it’s place and the world is restored to order.
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It really was a pleasure to participate in this. We may be doing this trip with the intention of raising money for Book Aid, but the process , as we’re finding out, involves us being invited into peoples lives, as part of their daily life for a small period of time. And the time we have there is precious to us, so, without any conscious decision on our behalf, we throw ourselves into the time we have, enjoying the people we meet as they present themselves. So this becomes our reality for the time being, living as the people hosting us live. To be able to jump in and be a part of someone else’s life, seeing how they live and what they do, gives us a privileged insight, and a new way of looking at things. The way different people live, the myriad ways there are of existing, the plethora of alternatives there are to find your niche, these are the most exciting, and interesting, things about the way we are traveling.
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For example, Leah insisted on asking everyone to voice the best and worst things to happen to them that day. Starting from the youngest to the oldest; everyone spoke, the answers ranging from being short and sweet to little anecdotes about something that happened that day. Mundane stuff really, and who cares, but! here’s the thing; the fact that such trivialities are talked about fosters a trust, an intimacy, the confidence that talking about your highs and lows is not an issue, but normal, and this is so vital, so important to a healthy psyche, surely! This coupled with the wide open spaces, the ability to roam about, (or career around in a 4x4 Monster Truck – Jonathan) contributes to the understanding that the world has enough room to accommodate you and your wantings. It’s really that simple. Consider how many alternatives there are to the way life can be lived and then consider that you can most likely conjour up whatever you most desire.
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After eating at a whole-hearty meal we headed to bed, our heads bubbling with the echos of boisterous laughter and good food happily swimming around in beer filled bellies. We had our beauty sleep in amongst the cats, dogs, birds, red-back spiders, alpacas, lamas, reunited brothers, sisters, friends, girlfriends of friends, monster trucks and other Wwoofers. We would need all the rest we could get to prepare for the poo collection and open day event. DSC_1605
In the morning the gates opened at ten sharp and the plaster cast bound Anne (A Grice family daughter of excellent moniker) manned the door with a donations jar. Charlotte (youngest daughter) sold bags of alpaca poo, an excellent garden fertilizer, and donated all her earnings to buy us some fuel. How wonderful! As Leah had advertised the open day and our arrival in the local paper, all the hard preparation work had been done before we even got there, and people started arriving promptly. This job of collecting alpaca poo pellets was one of the first chores we had been offered and we were looking forward to doing it as much as Kelly-Higgins Devine was of hearing about it.
DSC_1618 Anne dons a silky soft alpaca tash
Families, couples, men, women, children, visitors and locals alike walked among the alpacas and lamas and to talk to us about our adventure so far and to feed the newly sheared, doe eyed animals. We met some great supporters of our goals, people who seemed to be interested in helping us out in their own various ways. The great thing about our quest is that everyone can get involved, everyone has something to offer. If it were not for those who bring their skill to us, then our journey wouldn’t be possible. For example, the great networking skills of Leah, making the Open Day possible, or a lady called Kerry, a journalist from Thailand, who sent the story up north ahead of us, using her connections in the newspaper business to bring attention to our cause. People brought non-perishable food stuffs to us, offered advice, came to find out about Book Aid, and most of all, to bring us good cheer and a hearty ‘Good on ya mate’. DSC_1557 DSC_1597
Alpaca and alpaca poo facts
Their feet are padded and do no damage to the soil.
They nibble gently at native grasses and do no harm.
They make communal "poop piles," choosing favorite locations which they all use. this makes things easier for raking and collecting but difficult to distinguish whose poo is whose for samples.
They produce a sustainable luxury product: fiber! They even produce a useful by-product "Paca Beans", which make great fertiliser for free
They are smart and trainable and funny, each animal having its own very distinctive character.
They do not like being patted on the head, but don't mind their necks.
Alpacas do not have any top teeth, with nothing but a gummy pallet on top they can pull some great faces.
Alpaca poo does not smell!
They spit! I was unlucky enough to look at an alpaca's pint the wrong way and was given the paca spit shower. Puke! DSC_1820 Charlotte, Glenis, Leah, Anne, David and the Cheeky Gang
The Open Day was a great success, with money in the bank for the charity and fuel in our tanks we were happy as a three Brit piggies in erm…alpaca poo, however, with all our talking, we hadn’t left ourselves with enough time to do our promised work. That special treat was kept for the another day.
The following afternoon, Gareth sat stagnant on a bucket, willing an alpaca with his eyes to poo. Every time the tail lifted in a teasing manner he would wait with anticipation for some sphincter action, for hours, to no avail . Having been told that dinner would not be served until he collected the sample Leah needed, he stated that he had never been so happy to see an animal defecate just before dinner and that he was over the moon that sometimes, thank God, 'Shit happens'.
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DSC_1626 Charlotte and her gekko
The Grice family are an example to us all in good family management and relationships. All three of us will take a little something special with us from the way this family interacted with each other to enrich our own family life. Thank you so much to the Grice family for showing us such a wonderful time and for all you have done for us. We will never forget you!
To visit the Grice family Alpaca Farm (their doors are always open to visitors) please visit http://www.anahdalepark.com.au/index.htm

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The Singing ship, Capricorn Coast, Emu Park

DSC_1480 Motoring on in our pink and blue van, perspiring and singing along to a rock CD given to us by Don from Seventeen Seventy, we rang up Leah Grice as we approached Rockhampton to tell her we were on our way. Leah, her husband David, and their family live in Cobraball, near Yeppoon, where they own 190 acres of land, running an Alpaca farm. Another wwoof contact that was keen to host us raggle-taggle bunch, she assured us they'd saved a job for us to do - collecting the Alpaca poo for a worming sample. We accepted without hesitation, we said we'd do anything, and this pretty much covers that.
Leah told us to arrive in time for dinner, and because, for once, we were making good time, and had a few hours to kill, we decided on a little diversion to Emu Park. As misleading a name for any place since the time I argued with the landlord of a pub, who insisted there were no Guinness trees in his disingenuous Beer Garden, Emu Park has no Emus. Could you imagine how excited we were, thinking that, like Flamingo Land, we’d get to see all the Emus we could poke a stick at. In fact, we probably wouldn’t even need that pointing stick (you know, the one they insist would be useful in zoos, for those truculent animals, who insist on not doing anything, until you walk away, disgusted at the participatory ambivalence of nature to appease us and look cute “that hipplopotomouse looks just like the sofa bed commercial one. How cute. Look honey, it’s opening its mouth and charging this way. Aaah!”) because there would be a whole collective bunch of Emus, frolicking freely in the scrub.

But just as there are no Whisky Shrubs in the Beer Garden (true!) there are no Emus in Emu Park. And I’m sure that Flamingo Land has closed down too by now. Probably because the lazy sods did nothing all day. There really should be a sign for this stuff.


The Singing Ship
Originally uploaded by A Race
The Wind Blows and the Ship, she Sings. Standing by this impressive structure overlooking the Capricorn Coast, it's surfers and the beach picnicers, you can hear the whistling of her organ like structure on the breeze.

Glenoak farm 27th Sep 110 So, without an Emu in sight, we followed the signs for The Singing Ship. Situated by the beach at Kele Park, we had no real expectations for it, except that it was a ship, and that it sang a bit. We went for a bit of a swim first, you know. But! The Singing Ship actually sings! It is actually a sculpture, designed in such a way that it sings almost constantly because of the on-shore breezes. The effect, particularly on a clear day when the white ship gleams in the sun, is quite stunning. The design was by Mrs C. M. Westmoreland who won a local competition aimed at commemorating the 200th Anniversary of Cook's discovery of Australia. It was constructed by S. W. Kele, a Rockhampton steel and concrete contractor, and the specific engineering and acoustic problems were handled by George Cain and David Thomas from the Capricornia Institute of Advanced Education. It is a notable and interesting landmark. Were there an Emu to ride bareback around its base ‘twould have been even more notable.
We then drove towards Yeppoon, where we were to meet with Leah who would take us to Cobraball and the Grice family home. Coming over the brow of a hill, down towards the junction after Yeppoon, we noticed the flashing headlights, the gesticulating, waving, smiling person behind the wheel of a monster 4x4, and guessed correctly it was Leah, who motioned us to follow her down the track and to the homestead. Kicking up dust we were outback fellas now; off the beated track, in the scrub, out bush.
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It's Rubbish! Extreme Recycling - What to do with a bin bag

Anne starts a New Fad in Skip Rat Street Fashion. Read Map Magazine here Read a cheeky bit more!

1770 This is What You Could Have Had

Picture by 1770 Undersea Adventures
One of the first people to offer us a place to stay was Don Growcott. In response to an article in the Brisbane Times he offered to teach us how to breathe underwater.
Due to other commitments we could only stay in 1770 for one night and so missed out on this generous offer. We did get to have a glance through his video to see what we could have had if we had the time. It was really difficult to pass up diving on the Barrier Reef but we had work to do in the next town over. Don took us in with very little notice and gave us a bed and the use of his home for the night. Glenoak farm 27th Sep 104 Lt James Cook Monument Cairn In the morning Don drove us up to Bustard Bay where Captain Cook landed in 1770. Before heading off for work he gave us his fuel card with instructions to fill up and then leave it on his kitchen table. He also donated some much needed music and some t-shirts as well as an invaluable first aid manual.

It was very interesting to speak to somebody so knowledgeable and passionate about the environment in which they work. We learnt a lot about the reef ecosystem in the area and how it is being threatened.DSC_1475

We left 1770 yet again amazed at the generosity of somebody who has known us for only a few hours yet taken it upon themselves to help as much as possible.

We would also like to thank the staff at Star Roadhouse and Caravan Park in Miriam Vale without whose help we would not have reached 1770. They not only donated $20 worth of fuel but also some pies and fritters to keep us going.
Thank you Mary and Stan, Emma, Christie, Hayley, Jan, Penny, Cindy and Pam

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Whinging Pom Archetype

sitting around a balzing campfire, with a million million stars enshrouding the blackness of night, as unseen creatures sing, creating the melody of the bush, as silence darts in and out of consciousness and the vastness of eternity can be visualised, there's always one miserable sod who want to kill it.
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