25th April, ANZAC Day in Adelaide

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The Bugle pierced the gravity of reflection as The Last Post sang out long and clear after the One Minute's Silence, with the rain falling a steady, quiet drizzle, as with bowed heads, facing the Cross of Sacrifice in Memorial Park, and the Cathedral Church of St Peter standing watch behind, those present paid their respects, a dignified tribute to those who had died while in the service of their country and listened as the Chaplain spoke

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An Anzac Day onlooker walks home after the parade ends

"They shall not grow old, as we that are left grow old;
Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.
At the going down of the sun and in the morning
We will remember them
"

'We will remember them' repeated the crowd softly, hands cupped, or behind their back.

"Lest we forget" spoke the Chaplain

'Lest we forget', repeated the crowd.

There was a shift in the mood, a collective composing, as the National Anthem 'Advance Australia Fair' was sang, muted, solemn, clear and proud. A brief pause, then the Chaplain lead the Benediction to The Glory of the Soldier

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"We remember the people of ANZAC who offered their lives that we might live
We recognize their gift enables us to explore, to value all that is precious to humankind. On this anniversary day, gathered around this Cross, we are aware of those who took inspiration from the sacrifices and suffering of their God.
The strength that coursed through the hearts of the ANZACS on that Sunday morning of April 25th 1915 is expressed in the words of the "poet soldier"


After the poem was recited the service came to an end. Moving around the Cross and back up King William Street, I crossed the park, passing all the uniformed men and women, old and young, gathered, talking, smiling, shaking hands, wistfull still after the service, but not sad, respects had been paid, tributes made.

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The ceremony by the Cross of Sacrifice was the culmination of the parade. The parade was a military procession of both serving and ex-servicemen and women, that passed northwards along Pulteney St, onto Flinders Street, before turning west onto North Terrace, passing the State National War Memorial there and north again when it meets King William St, and onto Memorial Park.

The procession was due for a 9.30am start. The light rain did not deter the diggers from marching, much as it didn't deter the crowds from lining the street to cheer them on. Almost 7000 soldiers and next of kin marched, with 18,000 lining the streets. ANZAC Day is a big deal. It marks the anniversary of the first major military action fought by Australian and New Zealand forces during the First World War. ANZAC stands for Australian and New Zealand Army Corps. The soldiers in those forces quickly became known as ANZACs, and the pride they soon took in that name endures to this day.

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Anzac Day in Adelaide

The date, 25th of April commemorates that day in 1915 when Australia first became involved in wartime conflict, and the men of the Anzac Corps landed on the coast of Gallipoli, in Turkey. Over 8 months 8,000 men were killed as they met with fierce fire and relentless attack. The anniversary of this day became an occasion of national commemoration. Commemorative services are held at dawn, the time of the original landing, across the nation.

The marches are held also all over the country; in all cities and towns, townships and villages, a service and procession marks the day. It is a day when Australians reflect on the many different meanings of war, the lives lost and its impact on life today. The multiculturalism of Australia means that soldiers from all over the world are represented, from each and every war Australia has deployed soldiers to or fought alongside. Represented on the march were veterans now living in Australia who fought for Greece, Poland, Holland, Malta, America, Canada, France, Britain, and Serbia among others.

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There were also Jeeps conveying Diggers from WWII too old to walk, and glassy eyed with emotion, as each year sees less and less of them remain; veteran Diggers from the Vietnam, Iraqui, Timor, Somalian conflicts were marching; brass bands played Waltzing Matilda; pipers played The Road to Glenrowan; Military bands rang out It's a Long Way To Tipperary; fighter planes flew overhead; the Australian Defence Force marched; the crowd shouted 'thanks, mate' and 'good on ya digger' and cheered and clapped applauding the whole time; the RAF Boy Entrants, the Womens Royal Australian Army Corps, the 1st Health Support Battalion, the Special Air Service Regiment, the 1st, 2nd, 3rd,4th, 5th,6th, 7th, 8th, and 9th Battalions of the Royal Australian Regiment marched by one after another; the energy and rhythmic military drums keeping tight each step; and the music, the noise, the sound of the beating shoes, pounding snare, steady rain, and collectivity of the emotion of it brought tears to the eyes of many, observing and taking part.

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Children were told by parents what Grandad had done, where he'd been and why, a proud father watched as his son marched, replete with Grandfather's medals, honouring his memory, taking part in the march, generations united, paying respects to deeds done, lives lost and sacrifices made. After the march and the service at the Cross, there was the mood of an afterparty to the solemnity, as back over the bridge we walked, and onto Memorial Gardens where two large tents thronged with people, drinking, talking, reminiscing, laughing and acknowledging each other.

It was raining heavier by now, the drizzle had turned into a steady downpour, so I turned to go back, to a cup of coffee, in the hostel. Whatever your views on war and warfare, ANZAC Day is a very special day, and it is only one day when commemoration be made to those who died in service to their country. It is a proud day, when Australians are reminded of those who lived, and died, in their name. And it was a pleasure to have been able to witness it first hand.
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The Nullabor - Dingos, Bottle Trees and Vast Amounts of Nothingness

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Bye Bye Western Australia - Ceduna Quarantine stop

"Holy shit, you better be carefull going over the..watch out as you cross the...have you got enough provisions, spare tyres, clothing, food, limbs for the trip across the...people have died on the... people have been lost, forever, and not seen since on the expanse of the... watch will you while crossing the..."

NULLARBOR!

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A statue in the gardens at Eucla

Like the mighty screech of a creature from the sky that devours humans like tiny ants and keeps their skulls as mementos of its terrible fury, we had been warned, repeatedly and without cessation, each time the word was mentioned that we should watch out... along the Nullarbor. It was not good there, and we should be careful, no, more than careful, we should go beyond it, and keep going, beyond being cautious, and speed up past even vigilance, on through good care and prudence too, and career headlong into paranoia and obsessive suspicion and speculation. Only then will you see... the Other Side, they said.

NULLARBOR! the word chilled the air.

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Not far to go now to get back to our starting point, Brisbane

Good old Aussies. They love a good yarn, as has been mentioned before. But this Nullarbor of theirs was exciting them all beyond what we had seen or heard before; more vivid than the stories of spider bites, or crocodile attacks, or even spider attacks on crocodiles, were tales of the Nullarbor consuming travellers like some highway Bermuda Triangle.
Hushed voices, raised eyebrows, a confidential lean-in, and a clasp of the hand warned us about it, made us promise to be careful, made us honour a sacred oath on a stone plinth while smearing goats blood onto our foreheads that we would exercise extreme care while crossing... the Nullarbor.

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Probably the only point of interest alng the Nullarbor, some pagan looking worship tree, nomads have offered pieces of rubbish, the full moon back lights the bottle clad tree

What is this Nullarbor of which they speak? What thing or netherworld creature can this Nullarbor be supposing to represent? Tales of bloodsoaked Backpackers stunned to silence on the South Australian border, their suntans bleached a fearful pale green, and wincing at every mention of the word Nullarbor; that six spare tyres and another engine would be needed if safe passage be made; that those unprepared for it would surely perish and that dying on the Nullarbor be a thousand deaths before the blessed release of eternal darkness.

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Australia's longest Straight road, the Nullabor

To dispense with the histrionics for a second we had to, in order to get to Adelaide, cross the (officially so-named) Nullarbor Plain. In the strictly factual topographical sense the Nullarbor Plain is the section of southern land between Norseman in Western Australia and Ceduna in South Australia. Nullarbor means 'no trees' in poor Latin, which is what it is famed for and for which its repute asserts its uniqueness.

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Although the land within the Nullarbor is barren, the road is surfaced and mainly coastal. The Trans Australia Railway runs directly through the centre of the Nullarbor where presumably most of The Horror lives. The Eyre Highway along which we were headed, runs along the southern section of the Nullarbor Plain. The Eyre Highway was named after John Eyre, who along with John Baxter (who unfortunately died on the journey), crossed the Nullarbor in 1841. It wasn't until 1912, however, that the first car crossed the Nullarbor.

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Thanks to Bruce and Stuart we had three new Jerry cans, to add to the four we already had. They were all full thanks to Henrietta and Donald MacKenzie. Jock 'The Wrecker' Murray filled our tank for us. We were also stocked with enough food supplies. Brian Tolhurst ensured we had enough fresh bread. Warm clothing we had need of and were given too. The Esperance crew had done all they could to make sure we got accross. It was up to us to do it. We could not let them down. Tear gas and a cyanide pill each inserted into our back-left molars we had also - just in case.

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Heading out of Esperance we drove 203 kilometres north to Norseman. Topping up there, we headed 193km east to Balladonia. Staying there the night, we continued next morning east along the longest straight stretch of road in Australia, a distance of 145km, until Caiguna. There we stopped for coffee and sandwiches, glad to be alive. East again is Cocklebiddy where we put in 10 litres of fuel from the jerry can supply. Tense.

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A further 90km away is Madura, and in order to reach it and to reach Mundrabilla another 116km east, we inserted 20 litres from the Jerry can store. We had by then covered 859 unforgiving kilometres. Staying in Mundrabilla for the night, we drank some/most of the beer Stuart and Bruce insisted (no, no, no, really, no ,no, no. Ok, then) we take with us, sipping entranced under the milky-glare of a bright full-moon. This Nullarbor was out there, we felt it.

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The Nullarbor was illuminated by a full moon as we passed through the nothingness

The final town before crossing the South Australia border is Eucla. But 15 kilometres before that is the aptly named Border Village. While there Paul at the BP Roadhouse filled our tank for us and fed us and caffeinated us too. Leaving then crossing the border, we left behind the comfort and confidence gained while in Western Australia, and entered a new world, that of South Australia, and who knew if this was where the dreaded Nullarbor might strike and force us to sing Cliff Richard Christmas Carols before eating our heads.

That night we stayed at the Nullarbor Roadhouse over 1,000 kilometres from safety in Esperance and still 1,200 from Adelaide, but almost half way across the Nullarbor Plain. We saw the treeless expanse now. Now, we have seen a lot of nothing, if such can be seen and not experienced, and this was a whole lot of it. The wind sailed across the land uninterrupted and not a single natural undulation blocked the perfectly flat scenery all around us. This Nullarbor was so terrible because it was a void.

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The moon-glare illuminated for us the starry sky after the sun not so much set as dropped down like a coin into a slot, and the pinkish sunset spread across the huge western sky. Wild Dingoes mooched around, hoping for scraps, but not wanting to offend The Nullarbor with indiscreet offerings to feral creatures (really, that's why, honest) they got none but a good old shoo-ing.

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The night was brisk and cold. The sallying wind seemed be moving parralell to the ground, in a straight line hurrying accross the landscape. The silence was deafening. Looking out into the expanse it seemed entirely barren. Nothing moved, or swayed. At least the ocean is constantly in flux. Not so the Nullarbor Plain. It exists as a vacuum into which all living things must yield movement eventually and merge into the stillness. Nullarbor.

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A Dingo puppy, quietly come over to wait for scraps of which we had none to give

It claimed a host of caravans and mobile homes and campervans, if our very eyes are to be believed!! The caravan park was full of passers-through when we went to bed. Full and teeming with campers, winnebagoers, campervaners, and sturdy swaggers. When we awoke, only one remained. An elderly couple were packing away their camp chair after a morning cuppa, probably amazed, like us, in a state of amazement, that the Nullarbor had claimed yet more people. That we were the only ones spared, we have Divine Providence and not being morning people to thank for that I'm sure.

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Look how straight and featureless the road is in all directions

It was 297 kilometres to Ceduna, and we drove along the Eyre Highway passing close enough to the Great Australian Bight to make it easy to go see. It is a large bight (it looks like a large bite if you look at the map, as though a huge chunk has been chewed off) or open bay located off the coast extending from central west to the south. The coast line of the Great Australian Bight is characterised by stunning cliff faces of up to 60 metres high and it was a relief to see the ocean, after the Nullarbor almost clamied us the night before (the siren call of lost backpackers wandering in the night looking for rolling tobacco and cheap boxes of goon).

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Sand dunes in the distance at the ege of the Nullarbor

Stopping along the way at Penang Roadhouse to fill the tank up yet again, we had clocked 1358 kilometres, with only 785 to Adelaide. Quickly feeding at Ceduna, we made it to Smoky Bay before dark, managing to find people good enough at the Caravan Park there to squeeze us in at an unofficial site beside the womens toilet, as it was Easter weekend, and they were full. Moving on next morning we topped up the fuel yet again at Wundera and Windarie Roadhouses before arriving, yet again, just before dark in Port Augusta, and finding, thanks to some more goodly folk, a plot at Shoreline Caravan Park.

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Not wanting to hesitate in case the Nullarbor folowed us out and tried to eat our livers with some fava beans and a nice Chianti we made headway to Adelaide next day. Arriving in Paralowie, not far from the city, just before (ahem) dark we parked up in the Caravan Park. We had driven 2,266 kilometres in six days, survived the dreaded Nullarbor and broken new records for the amount of times we said but did not act on the mantra "early bird catches the worm". We may not have caught any worms, but we survived the Nullarbor and that's fine by me.

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Quarantine searches our van at Ceduna

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Look very carefully at the lonely building in the distance on the Nullabor Plain

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